Bodegas Muga

"Dies ist der bisher beste Aro" (Luis Gutiérrez, Juli 2022)

Beim Bodegas Muga Aro 2019 dominieren fruchtige Empfindungen, die an rote Früchte und sehr reife Waldbeeren (Brombeeren, rote Johannisbeeren, Walderdbeeren) und blumige Noten (Veilchenblüten) erinnern. Würzige Sekundäraromen mit Zimt, Vanille, Nelken und schwarzem Pfeffer. Mit dem sehr gut integrierten Holz, das eine hohe Qualität in seiner Auswahl kennzeichnet. Am Gaumen finden wir einen Wein mit sehr gutem Rückgrat und Säure, frisch und mit einer Präsenz von abgerundeten Tanninen. Der Abgang ist sehr lang. Er hat ein großes Lagerungspotenzial und einen anhaltenden, vollen und eleganten Nachklang.
 

Der oben schon zitierte Luis Gutiérrez über den Bodegas Muga Aro 2019 (Juli 2022):

No 2017 or 2018 were produced of this luxury cuvée made with up to 30% Graciano to complement the Tempranillo from the villages of Labastida, Briñas and Villalba, so from the impressive 2016 I tasted in June 2019, we jumped to the 2019 Aro. The destemmed grapes went through optical sorting and fermented in small oak vats with indigenous yeasts followed by malolactic in new barrels, where the wine matured for 16 months. It's not a shy wine at 14.6% alcohol, and the Graciano provides extra acidity and vibrancy. It has great balance and a spark of acidity and is a very complete wine, with great aromatics and integrated oak (all new barrels, but better integrated than ever); it has the ripeness of Graciano, which ripens with low yields and only ripens thoroughly in given vintages, and they had to skip warm years like 2011 when some varieties like Graciano and Mazuelo didn't behave well. This is the finest Aro so far. 5,800 bottles were filled in July 2021.

 

James Suckling bewertet im November 2022:

Blueberries, cassis, black pepper, nutmeg and some mahogany here. Salted plums, slate, tobacco leaves and lead-pencil shavings, too. Wow. It’s full-bodied, intense and so well integrated and polished with seamless tannins. Powerful, yet elegant at the same time. 70% tempranillo and 30% graciano. 5,800 bottles only. Try this from 2027.
 

Im Oktober 2022 von Alison Napjus verkostet:

A muscular red in a sleek, limber frame, this offers saturated black currant and black cherry fruit flavors, with exotic spice and espresso notes expressing themselves in a modern style. Yet there's undeniable purity, with racy acidity focusing the tightly meshed flavors and dense, chalky tannins. Hints of violet, thyme, iron and spice play on the lasting finish. Tempranillo and Graciano. Best from 2024 through 2034.

Moderner Stil! Der Jahrgang 2019 ist ein eleganter Wein ...

... mit großer Farbtiefe, ein sattes Rot mit violetten Reflexen, die auf seine Jugendlichkeit und sein Entwicklungspotenzial hinweisen. In der Nase entfaltet sich ein intensives Aroma von Brombeeren und Erdbeeren. Die rauchigen Nuancen des Ausbaus in feinster französischer Eiche kommen durch und schaffen eine unvergleichliche Harmonie. Am Gaumen ist er kraftvoll, mit den gleichen vorherrschenden Aromen wie in der Nase und einem guten Gleichgewicht zwischen Alkohol und Säure sowie weichen, eleganten Tanninen. Der Abgang ist sehr lang im Mund und hinterlässt ein Gefühl von Fülle.
 

Verkostungsbericht Luis Gutiérrez | Wine Advocate im Juli 2022:

The 2019 Torre Muga showcases the classical blend of Tempranillo, Mazuelo (Cariñena) and Graciano, all from old and some ancient vines. The grapes are harvested into 200-kilogram boxes, the bunches destemmed and the grapes put through optical sorting to ferment in small oak vats with indigenous yeasts. Malolactic was in new French oak barrels, where the wine aged after racking for some 18 months, during which time it was racked every eight to nine months. It was fined with egg whites. 2019 is a great vintage for Muga, and they produced quality and quantity, which is remarkable. This has a slightly more modern profile and some French oak undertones, more noticeable in a wide glass and subtler in a narrower one. But it has stuffing, freshness and balance to absorb it in the short to medium term. And it's a year of power and finesse, one of the best in recent years. 47,880 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2021.

 

Verkostungsbericht James Suckling vom November 2022:

Intense nose of black fruit, ink, roasted espresso, black truffle and dried rosemary. It’s full-bodied with so much power and concentration. Firm but very velvety and integrated tannins. Deep core of black fruit. Yet, it’s not heavy. Long. One for the cellar. Try this from 2027.

 

Der Wine Spectator, Alison Napjus, veröffentlicht im Oktober 2022:

This harmonious, medium- to full-bodied version is lively and expressive, with good tension from the creamy tannins, creating a frame for flavors of fig cake, crushed boysenberry, espresso, sweet tobacco, minerally iron and stone. Long and focused on the fresh finish. Tempranillo, Mazuelo and Graciano. Drink now through 2030. 3,000 cases made.

Gran Reserva in Perfektion! Sorgfältige Auswahl von den hoch gelegenen Parzellen der Rioja Alta in den Dörfern Sajazarra, Cellorigo und Fonzaleche

Ein stilvolles Bouquet von schwarzen Früchten, die sich mit Gewürzen, Lebkuchen und Lakritze vermischen. Der weiche, geschmeidige Einstieg am Gaumen führt zu einem Gefühl von sanfter Kraft und luftig-leichtem Volumen, untermauert von kaschmirartigen, seidigen Tanninen, die von einer frischen Säure harmonisch ausgeglichen werden. Im Abgang kommen cremige Vanillenoten mit reifen Früchten zum Vorschein. Dieser Wein verlockt zum zum sofortigen Genuss, aber er wird noch viele Jahre lang gut altern.

 

Verkostungsnotiz von Luis Gutierrez vom Juli 2022:

The most classical of their wines, the 2015 Prado Enea Gran Reserva is a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano, mostly from Rioja Alta (Sajazarra, Cellorigo and Fonzaleche), but the Garnacha is from different plots in the zone of Tudelilla at high altitude. These grapes are always picked last, but the wine has a similar alcohol level as the rest, around 14.5% in a warm year like 2019. The modus operandi is similar to other of the top cuvées—harvested into 200-kilogram boxes, destemming, optical sorting and fermentation in small oak casks with indigenous yeasts. The élevage in this case is extended to 36 months, and the barrels are only 10% new. This is, year in, year out, my favorite wine from Muga, and in this powerful and ripe year, these late-harvesting vines ripened thoroughly and delivered a full array of aromas and flavors so that the wine has plenty of depth and complexity. It has a very classical profile, with incipient tertiary notes, perfumed, floral and rich, textured and beautifully balanced. They compare this 2015 with 2009 and 2005 in terms of style but with freshness in the style of 2001 and 2010. It's enjoyable but should also develop for a long time in bottle. One of the finest Prado Enea vintages. 108,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2018. There's no 2012 or 2013 of this. There will be a 2016 and 2019, but no 2017 or 2018. 2020 is still a question mark, they have not yet decided it.
 

Verkostungsnotiz von James Suckling vom November 2022:

Reserved and polished, this is a Prado Enea with great class and focus. It’s so aromatic,with plum, peach, cherry and cedar character. Salted olives, too. Medium-to full-bodied with very fine tannins and a long, fresh finish. Elegance with power here. Give it three or four years to open, but already impressive.
 

Alison Napjus im Oktober zum Bodegas Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva 2015 Rioja:

Well-tailored in an understated way, this harmonious red is plushly creamy on the palate, like fine cashmere, showing seamless integration of the sculpted tannins with finely detailed flavors of black cherry and black plum reduction, sandalwood, cedar, green olive, espresso crema and minerally smoke and iron. Long and lightly juicy on the refined finish. Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo and Garnacha. Drink now through 2030.

Eine kleine Rioja-Ikone

Dieser Selección Especial 2018 hat eine schwarzkirschrote Farbe und eine tiefe Robe. In der Nase ist er komplex, mit Aromen von dunklen Früchten, Anklängen an Zedernholz und Heidekraut, gefolgt von würzigen Aromen wie Pfeffer. Der Auftakt ist elegant und harmonisch, mit Noten von reifen roten Früchten und Gewürzen. Er hat eine fantastische, gut eingebundene Säure, die ihn lang und anhaltend am Gaumen erscheinen lässt. Es handelt sich um einen kräftigen Reserva-Wein mit großem Lagerpotenzial.

 

Louis Gutiérrez zum Seleccion Especial 2018 im Juli 2022:

2018 was a cooler vintage, with a fairly long maturation, which made the wines somewhat fresher and less alcoholic, as showcased by the 2018 Selección Especial, a classical blend of the four red varieties from Rioja, Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano with contained ripeness (14.05% alcohol) and good freshness. It fermented in oak casks with indigenous yeasts and matured in French oak barrels, 40% of them new, for 26 months. They were not very happy with the vintage and had to sort and discard, but as they didn't produce Prado Enea, Torre Muga or Haro, those grapes went into this wine. They are reluctant about 2018, but I think it was a vintage capable of the best and the worst, and this 2018 is floral, expressive and elegant. It's medium to full- bodied, with very fine, chalky tannins, combining power and elegance. Amazing! 187,200 bottles produced. It was bottled in January 2021.

Perfekt integrierte Säure und weiches Tannin sorgen für schmelzige Frische

Dieser Reserva 2019 hat eine leuchtende, rubinrote Farbe mit mittlerer Tiefe und einem granatroten Rand. In der Nase erweist er sich als ein Wein mit komplexem Aroma, bei dem primäre Fruchtaromen wie Heidelbeeren durch würzige Nuancen ergänzt werden. Am Gaumen ist er lang, ausgewogen und elegant.

 

Wie schon für den Jahrgang 2018 greift James Suckling zu 94 Punkten für den Bodegas Muga Reserva 2019 Rioja (September 2022):

This is a structured and linear Muga Reserva with a creamy and fine-tannined backbone and graphite, cherry, plum and black-truffle character. Medium-bodied, racy and beautiful. 70% tempranillo, 20% grenache and 10% mazuelo and graciano. Delicious now, but will age beautifully in the cellar.
 

ALuis Gutiérrez verkostet im Juli 2022 den Reserva.Jahrgang 2019 (Oktober 2022):

The 2019 Reserva, sold as Crianza in Spain, comes from a dry and warm year with low yields and concentrated wines. The grapes from the Haro zone, the four from Rioja, Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Mazuelo and Graciano fermented destemmed and lightly crushed in oak vats with indigenous yeasts, and 80% of the volume matured in French oak and the rest in Centro European and American oak, 20% of them new, for 22 months, during which time the wine was racked every eight to nine months. This is serious and young but balanced, nuanced and complex. They are shortening the time in oak, as they feel they have better and younger barrels and think the wines need less time in oak and more time in bottle. This is very Muga, very Rioja and very good. They produced an impressive 960,000 bottles and 18,000 magnums of this. There is only one master blend that is bottled at different times. I tasted a bottle that was filled in April 2022 (because of the lack of availability of bottles!).

James Suckling am 22. Juli 2021 über den Bodegas Muga Torre Muga 2016:
The purity of fruit to this is very, very intriguing with blackberries, graphite, and charcoal. Full-bodied. It radiates intense fruit with perfectly polished tannins. Subtle asphalt and blue fruit. Very long and beautiful. Racy. Tempranillo with graciano and mazuelo. Needs two to four years of bottle age. Try after 2021.

 

Verkostungsbericht Luis Gutiérrez | Wine Advocate vom 28. Juni 2019:

I tasted a super young 2016 Torre Muga that had only been in bottle for some four months. But even so, the year seems to be approachable and open. Even if the wine has concentration and power, it has great balance and freshness. And it's drinkable now, even if it's going to get polished with some more time in bottle, where it should have a long life. This was the most modern of the wines in the portfolio, but I think the modern and traditional styles have been converging over the years, and nowadays there is not a huge difference between them. And for its age, it feels quite round, and it doesn't have edges or any harsh tannins; the oak is present but it's neatly integrated in the wine. It has to be one of the finest vintages for Torre Muga. 36.000 bottles produced. It was bottled in early 2019.
 

Mit dem speziellen und hochwertigen Etikett erinnert Muga an die Anfänge der Bodega am Bahnhof von Haro. Das Projekt El Andén de la Estacion ist seit 2016 auf dem Markt und bietet einen durchaus hochwertigen Einstieg in die Welt der Muga family. Wem die Reserva zu exklusiv ist, dem sei dieser absolut typische Rioja aus bestem Hause empfohlen.
 

Luis Gutiérrez benotet den EL Anden de la Estacion 2019 Muga Family Rioja im Juli 2022:

The 2019 El Andén de la Estación is a new red that takes advantage of the Barrio de la Estación, the train station neighborhood of Haro. It's a Crianza with less extraction, looking for the elegance and finesse of the classical Rioja wines. It's a blend of Tempranillo from their younger vines and Garnacha (that they buy) that matured in French and European barrels for 14 months. It's a quaffable red with lots of Garnacha character (it might represent up to 30% of the blend, by far the highest in Garnacha from the portfolio). It's floral, juicy and expressive, very open and approachable. This is delicious and still quite complex. 186,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in April 2021.

Intensiv und komplex, ausgewogen und weich.

Die Rahmendaten zum Bodegas Muga Reserva 2018 Rioja: Handlese, Gärung mit einheimischen Hefen in Holzbottichen. Reifung für 24 Monate in Fässern aus von uns ausgewählter Eiche. Das Holz stammt zu 80% aus französischer Eiche und zu 20% aus amerikanischer Eiche. Vor der Flaschenabfüllung wird der Wein mit frischem Eiweiß geklärt. Anschließend wird er in unserem Flaschenkeller mindestens 12 Monate lang verfeinert, bevor er zum Verkauf freigegeben wird. Und weil Muga in 2018 auf die Produktion des Aro, des Torre Muga und auch des Prado Enea verzichtete, flossen die gewöhnlich für diese Spitzenweine der Bodegas reservierten Trauben in diesem Jahr in den Reserva.

 

James Suckling bewertet die Muga Reserva 2018 im Februar 2022 so:

This was the only red that Muga made in 2018, and the wines from the best vineyards went into the blend. In other words, top vineyards were declassified. Medium-bodied with very fine tannins that are caressing and refined. Plenty of subtle berries, chocolate and walnuts. Tempranillo with garnacha, mazuelo and graciano. January 2021 release. Drink or hold.nk now.
 

Alison Napjus schreibt für den Wine Spectator (Oktober 2022):

A harmonious red, medium-bodied and lightly juicy, layering light, creamy tannins with a pretty range of black cherry reduction, mocha, pomegranate puree and eucalyptus notes. Fresh, focused finish. Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano. Drink now through 2028. 80,000 cases made.
 

Und für den Falstaff bewertet von Benjamin Herzog und Dominik Vombach (September 2022):

Elegantes Bouquet mit Noten von konfierten und frischen Brombeeren, Dörrzwetschge und eingelegter Kirsche. Anklänge von Schuhcreme, Süssholz, dunkler Schokolade, Lorbeer und Piment. Am Gaumen schöne tragende Säure, kernige Kirschfrucht und Dörrzwetschge sowie zitrische Nuancen. Feinkörniges, reifes Tannin, langer Abgang.