19 /20 Punkte Raymond Chan
16. Februar 2015:
Brilliant, light golden-hued straw-yellow colour lighter on edge. The nose is very elegant, tightly bound and refined in expression, with restrained aromas of white and yellow florals and stonefruits, along with nuances of pineapple, unveiling waxy mineral, wet stone and nutty detail. The aromatics grow in presence and depth with aeration. Bone-dry to taste and medium-full bodied, the intensity and depth of fruit confers an elegance of proportion. Tightly concentrated flavours of white and yellow stonefruits are subtly lifted by floral and honeysuckle notes and mineral suggestions. The palate features a fine-grained phenolic core of fruit extract, enlivened and driven by bright, lacy acidity. Some alcoholic power underlines the fruit which carries to a richly detailed, long lingering, dry finish. This is a fresh, elegantly concentrated, powerfully driven dry Chenin Blanc with stonefruit and mineral flavours. Serve with seafood and white meat dishes over the next 10 years. Fruit from ‘Las Bas’, WBP and indigenous yeast fermented to 14.5% alc. and 3.6 g/L RS, TA 7.3 g/L and pH 3.56 the wine aged 9 months in seasoned 600 L demi-muids on lees, without batonnage or MLF. 19.0/20 Feb 2015
This latest release of James and Annie Millton’s ’Clos de Ste Anne’ collection may be the finest yet. They consider 2013 to be "possibly the best vintage in 30 years and all five of these wines will age for many years to come”. Indeed, the 2013 vintage is seen as one of the greats in the Gisborne, and north eastern North Island regions, and to date, the wines I’ve seen bear this out. The ‘Clos de Ste Anne’ wines are very special for the Milltons, as they are the produce from the single ‘Clos de Ste Anne’ estate, based on the original ‘Naboth’s Vineyard’ planted in 1981 to assess the potential of hillside vineyards in Gisborne. ‘Naboth’s’ was a completely different approach to the region’s existing vineyards which were planted on the flat land, primarily designed with high yields and ease of management in mind. Based on the unique character of the resultant wines, the Milltons extended the plantings in 1989, consolidating the varietal mix. ‘Naboth’s’ is now joined by ‘La Bas’, ‘La Cote’, ‘Les Arbres’, and ‘The Crucible’, and all these vineyards lie in the ‘Clos de Ste Anne’ estate which measures just over 12 ha.
The Clos de Ste Anne wines are particularly special for James Millton, as they are a tribute to his wife Annie. They are made with the greatest technical care, but also with the greatest love and inspiration to reflect their philosophies and experience of winegrowing for over three decades. Stylistically, the wines draw from the example of the world’s great wines, but they seek to capture the uniqueness of the Milton’s approach and the terroir of the site. Complexity and interest are aims in their making. Organic winegrowing, Millton being BioGro organic certified since 1989 and the adherence to biodynamics, Millton being Demeter certified since 2009, are all integral with the crafting of these wines, these concepts part of the Millton’s foundation. Here, I review the 2013 ‘Clos de Ste Anne’ collection, due for release at the start of March 2015.
Quelle: www.raymondchanwinereviews.co.nz
